Kathleen Quealy began her winemaking training at Wagga Wagga and was both mentored and inspired by her viticulture teacher Dr Max Loder. His love of viticulture was supported by a European philosophy, with the ironic appreciation that in Australia winemakers were dismissive of viticulture, and rather enamoured by new fangled machinery. Her trajectory was including a viticultural understanding into her winemaking. Quealy’s philosophy is her activities have to be real. She understands that they are her grapes, made at her winery by her decisions, and that is how she believes you discover how to make a great wine.
Quealy also believes that innovation begins with confinement to one region, after that it is a chess game, how do you extract the most quality out of your region? She believes it is with style and that you have to think outside of the square to achieve results. Quealy also thinks that blending is a significant contributor to quality in winemaking. Blending across varieties can enhance the qualities of all the varieties involved, hence the birth of Pobblebonk and Rageous.
A blend composed in the vineyard, each of the 5 complementary varieties performing a designated role dictated by their natural attributes. Pinot Grigio hits the palate first in a burst of bright-eyed acidity, ably reinforced by the muscular acidity of Chardonnay. Friulano, with its penchant for skin-contact, bestows texture and depth.
Moscato Giallo and Riesling are Pobblebonks’ aromatic double act. Crucially, both can be picked at 9% alcohol,
harbouring acidity, fruit character and perfume. Early
picking also means they arrive in the winery the same
week as their earlier-ripening counterparts and enables
co-fermentation. This sets the tone for the blend, whilst
serving to reduce the alcohol of the other varieties.
This style of winemaking negates the need for acid
additions or reliance on oak ageing to build aromatics.
Tasting The beauty of Pobblebonk is the chorus of this
vineyard quintet – the pink fruits of Pinot Grigio, the sullen
strength of skin-contact Friulano contrasting with the
tingling acidity and opulent aromatics of Moscato and
Riesling. Co-fermentation of Pinot Grigio and Friulano
begins as a brooding, reductive moody wine ignited with
the blending of classic aromatic varieties; Moscato Giallo and Riesling. The palate is a colourful tapestry of whole citrus fruits, jasmine tea, and orange blossom with a nutty background.
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